Monday, February 15, 2016

Review: Finland (Helsinki, Rovaniemi, Luosto) and Estonia (Tallinn)

Visit date: 5-12 February 2016
Cities: Helsinki, Rovaniemi, Luosto and Tallinn (Estonia)

Prepaid SIM Card
http://prepaid-data-sim-card.wikia.com/wiki/Finland
The above link gave spotless overall view on the available options in Finland.
In R-Kiosk in the airport, Sonera, Elisa and DNA are available.
The staff recommended DNA, but since I had plan to go to remote places in Lapland, I chose Elisa Saunalahti Prepaid and happy with that. It costed only EUR 12.5 including unlimited internet for 1 week (EUR 5.90 for the SIM Card and EUR 6.60 for one week unlimited data plan, some domestic call was also included since I used it several times). I just paid the money to the kiosk staff and just inserted the SIM Card into my phone, put the PIN code then I could use it, very easy.
The PIN code was "1234", as also mentioned in the above link, but it was also indicated in the package received, so maybe it is better to keep the package.
My friend bought Sonera, he paid EUR 26 (EUR 6 for the card and EUR 20 top up, since it charges EUR 2 per day for the internet).

Transportation

In Helsinki
https://www.hsl.fi/en
I think buying the day pass (EUR 12 for regional including airport and EUR 8 for inside Helsinki only) is very good value, since single ticket costs EUR 3.20 for inside Helsinki, and EUR 5.50 for regional ticket (for airport).
The pass is valid for all, including train, bus, tram and ferry to Suomenlina.
The ticket can be bought also on the train (only in the car with the conductor inside), some bus/tram stops and even with the bus drivers.
There is no check when boarding train and tram, but there is random check with EUR 80 penalty.

New train to the airport
http://www.finavia.fi/en/helsinki-airport/to-and-from/train-buses-and-taxis/
Quicker than bus, since bus is affected by traffic jam and weather condition.
But it was not running due to technical issue when I arrived.
It costs exactly the same with the bus.

Cheap flights
http://www.norwegian.com/en/
Much cheaper than FinnAir if bought earlier.
The Busy Bee mentioned in Lonely Planet is not available anymore.

Ferry to Talinn
Eckerö Line
https://www.eckeroline.fi/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/TopCategoriesDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10151
A day in Tallinn cruise costs only EUR 19, Helsinki-Tallinn 08:30-11:00, Tallinn-Helsinki 18:45-21:15.
Buying one way ticket is almost double price!
Breakfast buffet EUR 14.
The confusing thing was, my friend bought the same ticket in the same website only EUR 9!
In the website, there were some available option, so better to explore which one is cheaper.
The ferry was a big cruise ship, with huge lounges with live bands, restaurants, cafe and bars, and supermarkets.

Bus
https://www.matkahuolto.fi/en/
The above website provides comprehensive schedule.
There is new bus company called OnniBus, from Kemi to Rovaniemi costed only EUR 2 per person. Booked online or at site with the driver costed the same.
Skibus is the only option for Rovaniemi-Luosto route, costed EUR 49 two-ways, tickets with the driver, smaller van-like bus minibus.


Rental Car at Rovaniemi
Took Sixt rent a car in Rovaniemi.
https://www.sixt.com/car-rental/finland/rovaniemi
Booked in advance in website is cheaper and free cancelation.
I booked once, canceled, but decided to book again on the day by phone, but they offered higher cost on the same car. But the other options like Hertz and Europcar, when I called there was no available car.
Sixt is also good since they open 24 hours, while others are not.
However, the car I rent had a big crack on the front glass, and the fuel indicator was damaged always showed 3/4 even when it was full as informed by the staff when I called.
They were kind enough though, didn't charge me with the fuel refill after I explained I used the car only to go to Santa Claus village.

Intercity Trains
https://www.vr.fi/cs/vr/en/frontpage
Easily booked at above website.
Booked overnight sleeping compartment from Helsinki to Kemi, chose the compartment with private shower room.
Surprisingly it was really comfortable. When we opened the door, we thought it was too small, no space to put our luggage, but later on we found enough spaces. Loved the shower and how they managed to build everything in such a small space.
Towel and water were provided.
Small confusion during the online booking, especially regarding compartment, but when we understood, it was OK.


City Sightseeing

Helsinki
Followed Lonely Planet Walking tour route, more or less.
Sibelius Monument, an artistic monument in the middle of a park, near a frozen river. Was snowing when I was there, but I think it's a nice place.
Olympic Stadium, within walkable distance, about 10-15 minutes from Sibelius monument. Was snowing, so not much things to see. And the tower is not as cool as I thought. Should've checked the Google Images first before visiting. Didn't go inside, might be interesting to see the museum.
Oopperatalo, like opera house, but the building is not spectacular, like Oslo Opera House, not worth it to go.
Temppeliaukion Kirkko, a modern church hewn from solid rock (quoted from LP). Just saw from outside. Unique, but not spectacular.
Finlandia Talo, a concert hall, but the building is not spectacular.
Musiikkitalo, a glass-walled concert hall, near Finlandia Talo.
Tuomiokirkko, or the white cathedral of Helsinki. A huge white building in front of the Senate Square. Might be the most delightful old building in Helsinki.
Kauppatori, the harborside square. Nice view of the harbour.
Vanha Kauppahalli, the indoor market near Kauppatori. A nice stretch of shops. Several places to eat lunch. Had a salmon cream soup for EUR 9.5.
Kiasma, the museum of contemporary art just next to the train station. EUR 12, upto 20:30. The exhibition opened during my visit was only 1 floor.
Kotiharjun Sauna, a good place to see the local life. The sauna was too hot for us. EUR 13 entrance. Bring your own towel and shampoo tools.

Rovaniemi
Santa Claus Village, a very touristy area featuring Santa Claus and Arctic Line. There are Santa Clause Office and Santa Clause Post Office. Santa Claus can be met in 2 locations, one in Santa Claus Office, where there is always long line, or in the front visitor center with shorter line. Santa Claus will talk about 2 minutes for free, but the picture taken with the Santa Claus is sold from EUR 20.
Artikum, a huge and comprehensive museum about Arctic area. Entrance EUR 12. Next to it, there is art museum, the combined entrance is EUR 15, didn't have time to see the art museum.

Luosto
Luosto is a ski resort village, with several hotels, 2 independent restaurants, and 1 supermarket.
The ski was not expensive, as I recall, one day lift costed around EUR 30 and ski set rental also costed about the same.
There is a small lake where there is ice skating ring, and we could walk around the lake (about 2km).

Tallinn
Old city. Every corner is pretty in this city. Just wandered the stone cobbled street. There is Russian Orthodox church with nice outside building, though the inside was so so. There is one part of the wall that can be climbed by paying EUR 3. There are a lot of cafes, visited one named Kalev, said the oldest cafe in Tallinn, and the producer of the famous chocolate brand with the same name.

Kemi
Sampo Ice Breaker and Snow Castle
http://visitkemi.fi/en/

Sampo Ice Breaker. 6-Feb-2016. The only tourist ice breaker ship in the world, they said. Joined the afternoon trip called Blue Moment Cruise 14-18pm, EUR 481 per person including the snow mobile option, i.e. riding the snow mobile (2 persons in one snow mobile) and joined the cruise in the middle of the sea.
Without the snow mobile I think it would have been EUR 360 per person.
Added late lunch option for EUR 28, but I think it was not worth it, since the original package already included soup with bread, with free refill, so you paid EUR 28 for steak and desert. The coffee was not included.
The cruise itself was so so, though the ship might have broken some thin ice, most of the route was following the previous route, i.e. the ice was already crashed before, so the experience was not that spectacular.
The floating part was good, though due too many persons, had to wait for turn, but they didn't rush, we could float as long as we wanted.
There was very big group from Hongkong that time.
The Snow Mobile option. Instead of boarding from the ship from the harbour, with this option, we rode the snow mobile from above the frozen sea, started from the sea nearby the Snow Castle. We visited a small reindeer farm owned by a Sami. Only few small reindeers were in the farm. We got about 5 minutes reindeer sleigh ride, got a hot blue berry juice and a certificate that we can ride a reindeer sleigh that valid 5 years! The snow mobile ride was quite nice, driving over the vast space of the sea. The ride is long, especially the return ride since the day had become dark and it was snowing. Thermal jacket, shoes helmet and gloves are provided.

Snow Castle. It was the nice and many wow places and fantastic sculptures. But the sleeping in the Snow Hotel, EUR 125 per person for the standard room (smaller room without any sculpture on the wall), might not be a comfortable, like sleeping inside -5 degC freezer. Sleeping in a warm sleeping bag on air bed. But the toilet is outside. Few people that couldn't stand, chose to move sleeping in the warm lounge area, on the sofa. The lounge area was warm and nice, sells drink and snacks and opens 24 hours, with some comfortable sofas and a TV and the lockers are located here. We need to keep all our things here in the locker. We were only allowed to have the room 6pm-10am, where the Snow Castle is closed from visitor. The good thing about staying here was we can enjoy the Snow Castle outside its opening time. From the chapel rooftop, we can have a nice view of the nearby sea, should be a nice place to watch Aurora.
The staff were nice, especially a guy named Tonik.
There was no shower in the castle, so coupon was given, to take shower in the nearby municipal swimming pool, where sauna and swimming were available too, but the shower only open from 09:00-16:00 (depend on the day).
Dinner at Snow Restaurant. Costs EUR 46 for the standard and EUR 53 for the special 3 course menu with Reindeer meat. The food was so so.

Tours and Activities

Luosto

Lapland Safaris
http://www.laplandsafaris.com/en/
Big organized company with many staff, located in front of Santa's Hotel Aurora.
Husky Safari 10km.
7-Feb-16. Joined the husky safari 10km, EUR 128 per person.
Though too many participants, everybody got the sleigh, there were many dogs in Arctic Husky Farm, 180 dogs. One person as passenger, one person as the rider. Since the dogs were always eager to run, the rider had to pressed the brake all the time. It was quite exciting ride.
In the end of the visit, we had a chance to cuddle the puppies. Visit to Arctic Husky Safari had to be via Lapland Safaris or other travel agent, cannot direct.
The girl guide from Lapland Safari was not experienced and what she said was wrong, e.g. she explained that we would be divided into 2 groups, but actually it didn't. After the ride, when I said I would go to toilet, she said after toilet please wait in the room where we got briefing, but good thing I didn't follow her, since there was a session cuddling the puppies, if I had followed her, I would miss this precious session.
Email respond was good, since I couldn't book directly in their website, they booked me by my email.


Kairankutsu
http://en.kairankutsu.fi/
A family run company leaded by the father Mr. Eero.
Paid EUR 380 for customized private tour for ice fishing, village visit and Reindeer Safari from afternoon (half day). Originally we supposed to do the same activities for full day from 10AM, but we changed plan since we wanted to do the Amethyst Mine in the morning, so we started our tour from 1PM by squeezing the ice fishing and village visit timing. The ice fishing and village visit were arranged by Eero himself, while the Reindeer Safari was arranged by the Kopara Reindeer
Farm.
For the ice fishing, Eero took us to the big frozen lake, told us how to make a hole and fish. It was quite enjoyable and relaxing activity, more than expectation. Since we didn't have time, we didn't wait till we caught a fish.
Village tour, due to time limitation, we visited only one village. Eero explained many things, but I don't thing this activity is worth the money.
Reindeer Safari at Kopara Reindeer Farm, there were more reindeer than the one we visited in Kemi, and the reindeers were bigger. Not run by Sami, but by Lappish (Finnish who moved to Lapland). We could feed the reindeers. Then a very long and slow reindeer sleigh. We just sit and our reindeer was pulled by the staff that riding a reindeer sleigh too. Since it was slow, it was quite boring, though relaxing. After the ride, we were treated by sausage barbeque inside a traditional tent with fire.   

Amethyst Mine
http://www.amethystmine.fi/
Didn't plan it before, but decided to do it after a recommendation.
We were happy we did it, more than expectation.
Paid EUR 59 per person, at the amethyst shop in Luosto center in front of the big hotel LuostoTunturi.
We got on a Pendolino, like a snow truck, to go the the mine. After good explanation about the stone and the mine, we dug finding our stones in the mine. During the explanation, the staff said we only were allowed to bring one stone than could be hidden in our palm, but there was no check in the end.

Accommodation

Helsinki

Eurohostel
http://www.eurohostel.eu/
Stayed one night in private twin room (EUR 46.40) and one night in a dormitory room (EUR 23 + 3.13 HostelBookers fee).
The dormitory room is a twin room actually, so only 2 persons in the room, which was a luxury.
Location is not that center, but it is OK, 15 minutes by tram from central station. And on the way, we pass some nice sightseeing spots. Printing costed money. The kitchen didn't open at 6AM as said on the paper. Sauna in the evening costs money.

Rovaniemi

Stayed with Kari from Airbnb.
His apartment was nicely furnished, nicely decorated, well furnished and centrally located.
Paid EUR 60 for the whole apartment.

Luosto

Santa's Hotel Aurora in Luosto (previously Aurora Chalet)
http://www.hotelaurora.fi/en
Stayed one night in glass igloo room and one night in standard room (with fire place and sauna ensuite), paid EUR 685.
The hotel provides aurora alarm, by providing a mobile phone and they will send sms when aurora is visible.
The Glass igloo room was fantastic and so luxury and comfy. There are 12 rooms, like cottages, located outside the main buildings. The famous Kakslauttanen round shape igloo is more pretty though, but surely the Aurora hotel igloo is more comfy.
The Standard room was also comfy, with a fire place and a sauna inside the bathroom. The fire place is only for decoration, not for heating purpose. The sauna, we can adjust the temperature, which was good, since public sauna in Finland is too hot for me. The sauna is a good place to dry washed clothes too :)
The dinner was very good, ordered 3 course meal for 2 nights. The cost was EUR 39 per meal, but somehow they didn't charge us additionally.


Dining

Helsinki

Most restaurants in Helsinki close their kitchen at 10PM. Except McDonald's that closes at 11PM.

Zetor
http://www.zetor.net/index.php?id=317
Popular restaurant just near the train station.
The decoration is like cowboy place. Often fully booked, better make reservation.
After 8PM, they said they became a nightclub, that we have to deposit our jackets for EUR 3.7 per person, there is no change in environment though, still like restaurant, everybody is taking usual dinner even after 8PM.
The food is good, I think, not very though.
Ordered Reindeer sirloin steak, but the one I had in Luosto Aurora Hotel was better and bigger and cheaper. Paid EUR 43.50.

Karl Johan
Recommended in Lonely Planet. Located not far from the station.
3 course meal, Menu Classic with beef steak, cost EUR 49. House glass wine was EUR 8.10.
Good taste.

Hesburger
Finnish original burger chain.
Tasted better than McDonald's.


Rovaniemi

Cafe&Bar21
Recommended in Lonely Planet.
They sell uniquely, waffel lunch, i.e. waffel with topping of different things.
Ordered the waffel with meat ball topping, and was very good.
The waffel lunch costs around EUR 11.5
Nicely decorated place.

Xiang Long 祥龍
Dining in this Chinese restaurant to celebrate Chinese New Year.
There was a course meal for 2 persons, including appetizer, 2 main meal, and desert, cost about EUR 40. Was so so.
Found it in Google Map and Trip Advisor.
Located in the main pedestrian street.

Luosto

Beside the hotel restaurants, in the center, there were only 2 independent restaurants.
Only one offers lunch, EUR 10 for buffet lunch including drink, was OK.
Took dinners in Santa's Hotel Aurora and was satisfied with the meal.

Tallinn

Karl Friedrich
Just in the main square.
Ordered 2 honey beer (nice taste) and dumpling, paid EUR 28.90.

No comments:

Post a Comment